The Itinerary

Ports of Call: Fort Lauderdale, Florida, US; Isla Catalina, Dominican Republic; Kralendijk (Bonaire), Antilles; Oranjestad, Aruba; San Blas Islands, Panama; Enter Panama Canal Cristobal; Cruising Panama Canal; Exit Panama Canal Balboa; Fuerte Amador, Panama; Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia; Avatoru, Rangiroa, French Polynesia; Papeete, French Polynesia; Bora Bora, French Polynesia; Rarotonga, Cook Islands; Cross International Dateline; Nuku' Alofa, Tonga; Lautoka, Fiji; Easo, Lifou, New Caledonia; Noumea, New Caledonia; Brisbane, Australia; Sydney, Australia; Hamilton Island, Australia; Townsville, Australia; Cairns, Australia; Thursday Island, Queensland AU; Komodo Island, Indonesia; Benoa (Denpasar), Bali; Pare Pare, Sulawesi, Indonesia; Hong Kong, China; Da Nang, Vietnam; Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam; Sihanoukville, Cambodia; Ko Kood, Thailand; Bangkok, Thailand; Singapore; Porto Malai, Langkawi, Malaysia; Phuket, Thailand; Cochin, India; Mumbai (Bombay), India; Dubai, United Arab Emirates; Khasab, Oman; Muscat, Oman; Salalah, Oman; Safaga, Egypt; Aqaba (for Petra), Jordan; Sharm el Sheik, Egypt; Sohkna (Cairo), Egypt; Enter Suez Canal at Suez; Daylight transit Suez Canal; Exit Suez Canal at Port Said; Ashdod (Jerusalem), Israel; Haifa, Israel; Bodrum, Turkey; Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey; Kerkira, Corfu, Greece; Dubrovnik, Croatia; Triluke Bay, Croatia; Venice, Italy

Friday, January 11, 2013

Bonaire


Let the adventure begin!  We have stopped at our first port, which is a small island 50 miles off the coast of Venezuela.  It is part of what was the Dutch Antilles, and is now, along with Sint Eustatius and Saba islands, special municipalities of the Netherlands. 

This is an arid tropical island in the Caribbean known for its reefs, crystal clear waters and is rated as one of the world’s top spots for snorkeling and scuba diving.  It is the driest island in the Caribbean and is strewn with cactus and prickly pear.  There are no trees and it is flat.  Why are there no trees?  In the 1700s, trees were cut down for the pigment inside to make paint.  There is very little vegetation that does not have thorns as the wild goats and donkeys have eaten everything else. 



 It is estimated that there are 15,000 goats and 8,000 wild donkeys!  We saw a few of them today.  The female donkeys are separated from the males in order to reduce the population.  There are slightly more goats than people on the island!  The island is also home to the largest colony of flamingos in the western hemisphere, more than 15,000.  Flamingoes get their pink color from the shrimp and algae they eat.




My excursion today was to the mangrove sanctuary.  This was an early start at 8:30 am.  After disembarking, we were treated to a huge rain downpour.  Our guide assured us we would not get wet as it was not going to rain on the other side of the island.  He was correct!  We travelled through town, and out into the “suburbs” and saw commercial buildings and low-slung homes that were painted in ever vivid color imaginable.  We turned off the main road onto a muddy, rutted slippery road.  We passed an estuary and saw birds of all kinds, flamingos, a few goats crossing the road, and some donkeys.

Upon arriving at the staging area for the mangrove excursion, we were instructed to take off our shoes and roll up our pants as we had to wade out to where the “boat” was.  This boat was a huge row boat with an electric motor.  Eight of us plus the guide got into the boat and off we went.  The day was pleasantly cool and not too humid.  The sun played peek-a-boo for while. 



It is amazing all the trivia I pick up on these tours.  I can now tell you all about mangroves.  How much detail would you like?  I take copious notes and don’t want to miss a thing in case I ever go on Jeopardy.  There are 70 species of mangroves and they only grow between 30°N or 30°S of the equator, in temperatures greater than 28°C and in salt water.  The ones here are the black, red and white species.




The black trees grow in salt water in the high tide area.  They suck up salt water and deposit it out on the leaves where the fresh water is taken back in and the salt dries up.  It looks like a tree and has black bark, and has air roots, which are above water, so it can breathe.  The white trees try to stay dry and assimilate water the same way as the black variety.  The red trees are always in the water and are the most important of the three varieties.  They have yellow flowers (why don’t they call it the yellow tree?) that filter out the salt from the water so it uses fresh water to survive.  There are lots of roots in the water.  The reds offer protection for the coral reefs that surround the island by filtering out sediment washed into the water from rain, they protect the shoreline, and act as a nursery for baby fish as the mom hides the eggs between the dense roots and larger fish can’t get to them.

One other interesting fact about trees:  there are no year rings in the tree trunks to indicate the age of the tree because the trees grow year round.  Aren’t you impressed?  Now you can quiz your friends and look like a genius
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The guide that drove us back to the ship had a most unusual purse.  It was made out of goat hide!  That’s right, the entire skin with the hair attached.  It was stunning.  She said that no part of a goat is wasted, but the handmade purse was quite expensive.  I wish I had gotten a picture of it.

I returned to the ship for lunch and a swim.  I had lunch, but never did swim.  I was enjoying a conversation with a guest entertainer, a nice young man from England.  We talked about kids, life and politics.  I get to meet some very interesting people and learn about life that is different from our pampered one. 

Michael’s Turn:

No trees for me; just sand and sea! I escorted an excursion aboard an authentic, hand made Siamese junk called Samur.  An interesting boat, it was originally build for a U.S. CIA agent who moved it to the Mediterranean and lived aboard for ten years.  Through a succession of owners it found its way to Bonaire and is now in charter service.  We set sail across the strait to the uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire, one of the largest uninhabited islands in the entire Caribbean.   Upon our arrival, we traveled via a zodiac to a pristine white sandy beach (poor Beverly, is she ever destined to see a tropical beach?) and proceeded to snorkel along the outside edge of Ebo’s Reef.  There were lots of fish and interesting formations to see. 


Perhaps the most interesting, and certainly the most important form of sea life in the area is the Parrot Fish, those cute little beaky things that come in about a million colors.  They are critical for the environment.  It turns out they eat the algae on the coral, and at the same time chip away (with those beaks) at the outermost layer of the coral itself.  After all this is digested and properly dealt with, just one of those little Parrot Fish, maybe just 15 inches long, will poop out one ton of sand per year which eventually turns into that pristine while sandy beach!  Anyway, after an hour or so of this we headed back to the Samur for a rum punch and the ride back to the Quest.

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Beverly is back:  I must tell you about our dinner.  We have a specialty restaurant that does tapas, small sample size portions.  We have dined here before and was not impressed.  They use some really exotic stuff and combinations, and pair it with different kinds of wines.  Tonight, was outstanding, and yours truly, who likes peasant food, even raved about it.  The grilled octopus ceviche was the hit of the night with all of us (we dined with Fred and Janet).  The lobster corn dog came in second.  Here is the menu.  Mary Lynn, I am getting some recipes for you to try.  It’s a good thing my skirt has elastic.


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